A thunderhead of dark ganache and espresso notes slowly rolls through, while fig paste, melted licorice, warm plum and blackberry compote flavors follow. A massive beam of graphite drives the finish to a crescendo, with the fruit echoing. Best from 2022 through 2050.

The gem of the lineup (and my money is on the wine of the vintage), the 2013 Côte Rôtie La Landonne sports a deep purple color and killer notes of blackcurrants, black olives, game, and spice. It picks up more minerality with time in the glass and offers a full-bodied, powerful, concentrated style on the palate. With awesome tannin quality (but lots of them) and integrated, yet high acidity, forget bottles for 7-8 years. It should keep for 2-3 decades.

La Landonne is never destemmed and is always the last of the single-vineyard wines to be picked. Philippe Guigal calls it "the most Pauillac of the Cote Roties," and the 2013 Cote Rotie La Landonne bears that out. It's slightly austere and firmly tannic, with attractive floral aromas and layers of dark fruit that will require time to fully emerge.

Inky ruby. Vibrant blackberry, violet pastille, anise and smoky mineral aromas are complemented by a suave spicecake nuance. Concentrated, palate-staining black and blue fruit flavors show excellent depth and focus, while hints of star anise and licorice build in the glass. Silky, smoky and seamless on the strikingly long and incisive finish, which is shaped by gentle tannins. Notes of licorice and candied flowers linger.