Ceretto's classic 2017 Barbaresco opens quickly and nicely in the glass. That playful accessibility is a trait that I found in many of the Barbarescos from this vintage. Compared to the two vineyard-specific expressions (Asili from Barbaresco and Bernadot from Treiso), this wine offers broad brush strokes of wild berry, spice, licorice and iron ore. That's exactly the mission of this wine: It provides an authentic portrait of a grape. Fruit represents a blend from various sites, including young vines from Asili and the lower parts of Bernadot. This wine is poised for near and medium-term drinking.

Pure flavors of cherry, strawberry and rose highlight this elegant red, accented by cut hay, white pepper and tobacco. It's solid and long, with a chalky feel on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2040. 500 cases imported.

Ceretto's 2017 Barbaresco is a very pretty wine built on lifted aromatics and mid-weight structure. Floral accents and bright red berry fruit give this ethereal, perfumed Barbaresco tons of appeal. The 2017 looks to be a tasty near-term drinker. Fruit sources are 75% Bernardot and 25% Asili.

Aromas suggesting camphor, pipe tobacco and blue flowers waft out of the glass. On the lean and austere palate, taut, fine-grained tannins support tart sour cherry, espresso and star anise.