While this Champagne is certainly dry, it has enough bottle age to have softened and brought out fruit as much as minerality. The result is finely wrought flavors of lime and kiwi lying over a taut texture. Drink this bottling from 2021.

A new cuvée from Laurent-Perrier, the inaugural NV Blanc de Blancs Nature represents the first time this house, for all its emphasis on Chardonnay, has ever released a blanc de blancs. Offering up aromas of citrus fruit, green apple, oyster shell and warm bread, the wine is medium to full-bodied, lively and precise, with a bright spine of ripe acidity and a delicately chalky finish. It's a blend of the 2012 and 2013 vintages with reserve wine from 2009, and chef de cave Michel Fauconnet told me that he had sought precision from the Chardonnay of the Montagne de Reims and texture from that of the Côte de Blancs.